@ChrisBot Not a problem ;) I'll order some HT and put in my autoclave soon, i guess the standard 2.1bar 137c would work? Or what would you suggest as autoclavesettings?
@Areis. That's the next piece of the puzzle... Did we ever actually decide on a tool? I am not sure how well a flat injector would work on something so flexible. I'm personally more in favor of the spatual, but I am a tad biased.
@NLmax, you should pick a model with relatively complex geometery to print, so it's easier to spot any apparent deformities.
@ChrisBot I'll look around for a model unless there is already an prototype STL?
On the topic of costs, don't forget that a printer uses quite alot of power. I normally calculate around 30$cents an hour, but with maintenance it could be a bit more
I'll see if I still have the file for the prototype spatula thing I made a while back, and will link when I get home. If not then I trust you can use your judgement when picking a model.
I saw that price was discussed a while Back haha and wanted to share my Experience as printing for others . As i did it to make some money, haha. I noticed my electricity Bill flew up during that Time. :) Not trying to make money of you
@ChrisBot , Got a test sample of filament in the mail this morning. I went for PETG ( it has a print temp of 230-250c), instead of the colorfabb one you suggested as it was cheaper. I will try that one when i get my paycheck again :).
I'll try to print the injector you posted in the other topic today or maybe tomorrow when I get the time and autoclave it.
EDIT:
I've tried the PTEG and it printed fine, only after autoclaving i noticed that the heat did melt the injector.
PTEG is not suitable although it has a melttemp of 230c
@NLmax did it actually melt at that temperature or did it just soften to a point were it then collapsed under its own weight. because if that is the case then you might be able to come up with a design that would have more strength under those circumstances or come up with something to support it whilst in the autoclave.
@ChrisBot Maybe that ABS will work? it has a glasstemp of 105±C? But i haven't really printed with ABS well since ever. So I'm not sure if that will work.
@Aeris I think Z-ABS will work although i can't print it neither do i have any of it in stock, so perhaps finding someone who can print and autoclave it? Or find someone who can print and send it and i'll autoclave it
@ChrisBot currently someone is printing one for me in Z-ABS and I spoke to him and if this didn't do it he had another filament "Z_ULTRAT " which has a glasstemp of 144C.
Currently I'm waiting for it to be delivered to me to test the Z-ABS, I'll post results when I get it.
If that doesn't do it I'll order a new one in Z_ULTRAT and post those results if needed
***UPDATE***
The Z-ABS arrived today and went directly to the autoclave, too bad it got bent by the temperature as I was expecting . I'll order a Z_ULTRAT model if anyone is interested in those results?
I think the possitive thing when using an autoclave is that you don't have to worry about chemical reactions between the filament and the cleanchemicals.
I'm not sure if chloroheadine is enough to get it fully sterrile?
@JohnDoe, I'm kind of with you on this one. I sterilized my 3d printed injector with a chlorohexidine soak and everything seems to have turned out peachy
Isopropyl and Chlorhexidine can both be mixed to cover a broader range of antibacterial effectiveness.
From my understanding, the Chlorhexidine is more potent and effective, but takes a longer time frame to work. Isopropyl tends to be very fast acting and aggressive, but doesn't hit as many things. On people, the Iso also burns. >~<
70% isopropyl and 4% Chlorhexidine is i think the golden mix... I think... :D
Comments
@NLmax, you should pick a model with relatively complex geometery to print, so it's easier to spot any apparent deformities.
On the topic of costs, don't forget that a printer uses quite alot of power. I normally calculate around 30$cents an hour, but with maintenance it could be a bit more
And if I may ask, why do you bring up cost?
went for PETG ( it has a print temp of 230-250c), instead of the
colorfabb one you suggested as it was cheaper. I will try that one when i get my paycheck again :).
I'll try to print the injector you posted in the other topic today or maybe tomorrow when I get the time and autoclave it.
EDIT:
I've tried the PTEG and it printed fine, only after autoclaving i noticed that the heat did melt the injector.
PTEG is not suitable although it has a melttemp of 230c
I'm still curious about resin prints, but at that point it would be easier just to buy a real injector...
I just saw that the glasstemp of the material is 97c, My idea now is that it needs to be 140+c as autoclaves go up to 137c ish.
@Aeris I think Z-ABS will work although i can't print it neither do i have any of it in stock, so perhaps finding someone who can print and autoclave it? Or find someone who can print and send it and i'll autoclave it
Currently I'm waiting for it to be delivered to me to test the Z-ABS, I'll post results when I get it.
If that doesn't do it I'll order a new one in Z_ULTRAT and post those results if needed
***UPDATE***
The Z-ABS arrived today and went directly to the autoclave, too bad it got bent by the temperature as I was expecting . I'll order a Z_ULTRAT model if anyone is interested in those results?
I'm not sure if chloroheadine is enough to get it fully sterrile?