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Hoover was aware of this trend among criminals and he became wary of the possibility of success. He commissioned several surgeons and dermatologists to report on the likelihood of someone obliterating their fingerprints, and in 1934 they came back with their findings. Dr. Howard L. Updegraff, a member of that committee, had extensive experience in the area of fingerprint alterations and he reported that the only way to permanently obliterate a fingerprint is to graft skin from another part of the body over them. And in 1941, that’s exactly what Robert Phillips did when he got a doctor to graft the skin from his chest on to the tips of his fingers. Phillips, however, was caught because the ridges surrounding the graft areas, as well as on the other joints of his fingers were used to identify him.Source: http://www.crimemuseum.org/blog/john-dillinger-fingerprint-obliteration
I recall in school, kids would use white Emler's craft glue. Place a small dab on the back on their hand, wipe it in a circular motion. Do not rub it completely into absorption and let it dry. The glue drys smooth and practically clear. When needed it easily pulls off, visually resembling dead tissue.
Not sure, this might be a no pain, low tech resolution.
Something that works ok similar to this is to press your finger into some very light weight air dry clay. Then apply a few layers of super glue inside to "Fix" the print. This isn't the reverse as spoken about above. Then fill in the space with some silicone and let it dry. The super glue unfortunately is a bit crusty and hard though with this method and wouldn't work well to press onto a reader. Also, when it dries it gets a bit mishapen at times.
I'm going to pick up some liquid latex this week. There are kits specifically meant for making mold. I've worked with the special FX make up latex stuff and it takes a print well. I think this is probably going to be optimal an I don't think we need an intermediary step. Just paint it onto the fingers to make a mold.
I've got a number of really great looking test prints. I'll be testing them this weekend. The scanners on Pyxis Units are particularly sensitive so while I don't think it's going to work... if it does we're good.
Update: Uh... no. The unit I tested it on blows up the image. Looks good, but it doesn't fool the machine. Was this the point however? I mean, it clearly looks like my print and I can use it as a mold to make many many more.