The Nitty Gritty: Designing an induction coil

Okay folks, my project just got quite a bit more realistic, and I should actually be able to cast and coat my own silicone pieces.  Which brings me to the next piece of the puzzle: the induction coil.

As someone famous once said, its hard to make a coil that doesn't work at all, and I've done my own stumbling.  But I'm mostly operating in the dark, with little of the requisite skills needed to optimally design one of these things.

So I need help.  I want to design a coil that will be reusable, and not just by me.  I'm hoping that, by the end of my project, we'll have a pretty standard cable that y'all can use in your own work, one which will have been tested in mine own body.

As a reminder, my project is to give me headphones in my skull.  Skullphones, if you will.  To do that, I want to run wire from my waist to right behind the ear.  These coils will be used at several points as connectors, also, letting me hook separate wires together without the dangers of splicing them together.  So keep in mind that the goal is good fidelity and high transmission of power.

Anyone willing to help?
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Comments

  • some very rough guides.
    if you go for transmitting low energy ammonuts or data only (like in rfid) you probably want to go for coils with large area.

    if you intend to transmit power through it like with headphones, you need very good magnetic coupling between the two coils.
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnetic_circuit might give some background and hints.

    other than that, the higher the frequency you use, the smaller you coils can be to transport the same ammount of energy. this might be critical especially for low audio frequencies that might require unconvenient big coils.

    if you'r plan is to have cables that connect inductily, you probably want 2 long thin coils sliding into each other, with a magnetic conductive core through the center, and top and outside. there would be other ideas. like having flat ends that snap together to produce a good magnetic coupling between the ends.

    the flat-ended version is probably the easier one, i doubt either will work for higher loads on low frequencies tho.
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